Char Kway Teow (Stir-Fried Rice Noodles)

Yield: 4 Servings


2 Chinese sausages (lop cheong)


1/4 lb Medium shrimp (36 to


- 40 per pound), shelled


- and deveined


1 t Salt


1/4 lb Cleaned squid, with tentacles


- (See Technique Note)


1/4 lb Chinese barbecued pork


1/4 t White pepper


1 1/2 T Dark soy sauce


1 1/2 T Light soy sauce


1 T Oyster sauce


2 lb Fresh rice noodles,


- in 5/8-inch-wide strips


4 T Peanut oil


4 Cloves garlic, chopped


4 Shallots, sliced (1/2 cup


- sliced)


6 Fresh red chiles, seeded


- and chopped


1 c Bean sprouts, tails removed


1 c Shredded Chinese cabbage


2 lg Eggs


4 Green onions, chopped


Fresh coriander sprigs,


- for garnish


Nothing is more fascinating and delicious than eating at the open- air


street hawker centers in Asia, particularly in Singapore. Each stall


serves a specialty, typically an honest, unpretentious, home-style dish


for $1 to $3 a plate. This rice noodle dish is hawker food at its best.


If done right, its fragrance will tell you how good it's going to be as


soon as it arrives at your table. Singapore hawkers will use whatever


seafoods are available, including cockles and sliced fish cakes in


addition to those suggested in this recipe. Feel free to experiment.


Steam the sausages for 10 minutes. Cut them in thin diagonal slices.


Toss the shrimp with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Let them stand for 10


minutes, rinse well with cold water, drain, and pat dry. Cut the squid


into 1/4 inch rings and tentacles. Cut the barbecued pork into


1/4-inch-thick slices. Combine the white pepper, soy sauces, and


oyster sauce in a bowl; set aside. Just before cooking, put the noodles


in a large bowl and pour boiling water over them. Stir gently with


chopsticks to separate the strands, drain, and shake off the excess


water. Preheat a wok; when hot, add 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the


remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and the garlic, shallots, and chiles and


cook over medium-high heat until the garlic is golden brown. Increase


the heat to high and toss in the shrimp and squid; stirfry until the


shrimp turn bright orange and the squid looks opaque white, about 2


minutes. Add the sausage slices, barbecued pork, bean sprouts, and


cabbage; toss and stir until the vegetables begin to wilt. Remove


everything in the wok to a platter and set aside. Add the remaining 2


tablespoons of oil to the wok; when hot, toss in the well-drained


noodles. Gently toss and flip the noodles to heat them through. Be


careful not to break them; it is okay if they brown slightly. Push the


noodles up the sides of the wok to make a well in the middle; pour in


the soy sauce mixture, then toss the noodles gently to sauce them


evenly. Make a well again and break the eggs into the middle. Without


mixing them with the noodles, scramble the eggs lightly. When the eggs


begin to set, add the green onions and return the seafood mixture.


Gently toss together to reheat and mix. Serve hot, with a hot chill


sauce for seasoning to taste. Garnish with coriander sprigs. NOTE:


Both here and in Asia, fresh rice noodles are usually purchased rather


than made at home. Look for them in Asian markets or Chinese take-out


dim sum shops. This dish can be prepared with dried rice noodles;


however, it is worth taking the time to seek out the fresh variety.


Make certain that your wok is well seasoned or the fragile rice noodles


will break apart and stick to the pan. Although I hesitate


recommending that you cook with a non stick wok or skillet, they will


work fine if you are more comfortable with them. TECHNIQUE NOTE; To


clean squid, start by separating all the tentacles from the heads,


cutting across as close as possible to the eyes. Squeeze out and


discard the hard, pea sized beak in the center of each cluster of


tentacles. Rinse the tentacles and drain them in a colander. Grasp the


mantle (the saclike "body" of the squid) in one hand and the head in


the other and pull apart; the entrails will pull out attached to the


head. Pull the transparent quill out of each mantle. Discard


everything but the tentacles and mantles. Running a little water into


each mantle to open it up, reach in with a finger and pull out any


entrails remaining inside. (Working over a second colander to catch all


the debris will make cleanup easier.) You can remove the spotted outer


skin or leave it on (I prefer to remove it). Transfer the cleaned


mantles to a cutting board, slice them crosswise to the desired


size,and add them to the tentacles in the colander. Give everything


another rinse and drain thoroughly.


Makes 4 to 6 servings




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